Pure Blue Japan vs Samurai Jeans vs Full Count: Which Japanese Denim Is Right for You?

Three brands. Three distinct philosophies. All made in Japan, all working in selvedge denim, all producing results that mass-market cloth cannot approximate. The question is not which one is best it is which one is right for you.

Pure Blue Japan, Samurai Jeans, and Full Count denim each represent a different answer to the same question: what should a great pair of jeans ultimately be? Learning what separates them will help you spend your money wisely.

The 3 Brands: A Considered Overview

Before going deeper on each, here is where they stand in relation to one another.

• Pure Blue Japan begins with indigo. The fabric sits at the centre of everything the brand produces. Texture, fading, and dyeing are not supporting details. They are the foundation.

• Samurai Jeans approaches denim through weight and construction. The emphasis is on density, durability, and the kind of details that reveal themselves over years rather than weeks.

• Full Count takes a different view. Its focus has always been faithful reproduction. Vintage American denim remains the reference point, executed with exceptional materials and precision.

Each starts from a different premise. Unsurprisingly, each arrives at a very different expression of Japanese denim.

Three starting points. Three very different destinations.

Pure Blue Japan: The Indigo Standard

Founded in Kojima, Kurashiki in 1997 by Kenichi Iwaya, Pure Blue Japan has built its reputation around one thing: indigo.

The company's name, Syoaiya, translates to "indigo dyer." That identity has shaped the brand from the beginning.

Pure Blue Japan fabrics are woven on vintage shuttle looms using a low-tension weaving method. The result is a cloth with noticeable texture and irregularity. The surface feels alive. Every crease, ridge, and variation contributes to the character of the fabric.

That texture becomes even more apparent with wear.

Like many traditional Japanese denims, the indigo is rope-dyed onto the warp yarns before weaving. The dye remains concentrated near the surface of the yarn rather than penetrating all the way through. Over time, wear gradually exposes the lighter core beneath.

The fading process is one of the defining characteristics of Pure Blue Japan denim.

The brand's sashiko-inspired fabrics and specialty textiles push that identity further. Traditional Japanese textile influences appear throughout the collection, often in subtle ways. The result feels rooted in craft rather than nostalgia.

Among the key models available at Mildblend is the XX-003, a 14oz regular straight that remains one of the clearest expressions of the brand's approach to classic indigo denim.

The SLB-019 offers a different perspective. Its slub selvedge fabric and relaxed tapered fit have made it one of the most sought-after contemporary Pure Blue Japan styles.

Prices generally range between $300 and $365.

For many enthusiasts, Pure Blue Japan represents one of the most compelling studies of indigo currently being produced.

The fabric is not simply part of the experience. It is the experience.

Shop Pure Blue Japan at Mildblend.

Samurai Jeans: Weight as Philosophy

Samurai Jeans was founded in Osaka in 1997 by Toru Nogami.

The samurai influence is more than branding. It appears in the construction, the materials, and the uncompromising philosophy behind the product.

Everything feels deliberate.

Samurai denim is known first for its weight. The brand's flagship S510XX, its interpretation of the classic five-pocket straight jean, is available in several weights including 15oz, 19oz, and 21oz. Limited releases often push beyond that.

The S510XX21oz has become one of the defining heavyweight denims in the market.

Woven from a blend of American and Australian cotton, the fabric is dense, heavily textured, and demanding from the first wear.

It asks for patience.

The reward is exceptional depth, contrast, and character as the denim ages.

Construction details receive the same level of attention.

Iron sunrise buttons. Copper coin-shaped rivets. Jacquard pocket bags carrying the phrase "Syogyomujo", all things must pass. Leather patches produced in goatskin or sheepskin.

None of it feels excessive. Each detail reinforces the brand's identity.

Samurai also cultivates its own cotton in Hyogo Prefecture, a level of vertical integration rarely seen within the industry.

Few brands pursue denim with quite the same intensity.

For those willing to embrace heavyweight fabric and a longer break-in period, Samurai offers one of the most distinctive experiences in Japanese denim.

Shop Samurai Jeans at Mildblend.

Full Count: The Honest Jean

Founded in Okayama in 1992 by Mikiharu Tsujita, Full Count is the oldest brand in this comparison. It is also one of the original members of the Osaka Five, the group of Japanese denim makers that helped define the modern selvedge landscape.

From the beginning, Tsujita's goal was simple. Create the best possible version of a vintage American jean.

Not a reinterpretation. Not a modern update. A faithful recreation built with the finest materials available.

This belief guides the brand even today. The defining material is Zimbabwe cotton.

Full Count was the first Japanese denim maker to adopt hand-picked long-staple Zimbabwe cotton in 1992. More than three decades later, it remains one of the brand's most distinctive choices.

The difference is immediately noticeable.

Where many raw denims feel rigid and demanding, Full Count feels remarkably comfortable from the start. The fabric is soft, breathable, and easy to wear without sacrificing durability or fade potential.

It is one of the rare denims that balances comfort and authenticity equally well.

The brand's most recognised fit is the 0105. Inspired by a 1953 Levi's silhouette owned by Tsujita himself, the 0105 features a wide, high-rise straight leg that reflects the proportions of mid-century American workwear.

The standard version comes in at 13.7oz. The 0105XXW increases that to 15.5oz.

Neither feels excessively heavy. That is intentional.

Full Count has always argued that denim should feel substantial, but never burdensome. The fabric should serve the wearer rather than challenge them.

For many enthusiasts, it remains one of the purest expressions of vintage-inspired Japanese denim available today.

Shop Full Count at Mildblend.

Side by Side

Which One?

Choose Pure Blue Japan if fabric is your primary interest. Only a Few brands explore texture, indigo, and fading with the same level of focus. The slubby surface and deep dye saturation create a character that becomes more distinctive with time.

Choose Samurai Jeans if construction and durability sit at the top of your list. The brand's heavyweight fabrics are among the most substantial in Japanese denim. Models like the S510XX 21oz require commitment but they offer an experience that few other jeans can replicate.

Choose Full Count if you appreciate restraint. The combination of Zimbabwe cotton, vintage-inspired fits, and thoughtful construction creates a denim experience that feels effortless. The 0105 remains one of the most approachable entries into serious Japanese denim and one of the most rewarding long-term ownership experiences.

All three are available at Mildblend Supply Co free shipping on orders over $200 to the lower 48 states.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which is the best first purchase in Japanese selvedge denim? 

Full count jeans are the most accessible starting point comfortable from the first wear, precise in construction, and available in a silhouette that requires no adjustment to how most people already dress. 

What makes Pure Blue Japan sashiko pieces distinct? 

Pure Blue Japan sashiko-influenced pieces incorporate traditional Japanese weaving and stitching techniques directly into the selvedge construction.

What weight is the Samurai Jeans S510XX? 

The Samurai Jeans S510XX is available in 15oz, 19oz, and 21oz, with limited editions beyond that. The 15oz is the most wearable across all seasons. 

Is the Full Count 0105 true to size? 

The one-wash fullcount 0105 measures close to true size. The unsanforized version will shrink on first contact with water most wearers size true and soak before wearing to control that contraction.

Where can I buy all three brands in the United States? 

All three pure blue japan jeans, samurai jeans, and full count selvedge jeans are stocked at Mildblend Supply Co.

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